"I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up that I was not happy." -- Ernest Hemingway.
Story and photos by Leigh Lofgren
Joy Adamson, who wrote the book Born Free captured the attention of the world in her quest to preserve African wildlife. And with the release of the film "Out of Africa" that was adapted from Karen Blixen’s book of the same title, Kenya became one of the great safari destinations.
My first trip to Africa was in 2007 and since then, I have traveled to that continent four times. The trip that was missing was Kenya and in February, I finally departed for Maasai Mara. I went on two differing photographic safaris – the first weeks were spent in the Mara North Conservancy in the Masai Mara at Kicheche Bush Camp, Kicheche Valley Camp, and finally the Kicheche Mara Camp. Each were special in their own way, but the Valley Camp was definitely my favorite.
The final 10 days were spent with professional photographer Ivan Glaser, a South African living in my hometown of Sydney. Last year, Ivan won the Photographer of the Year in Animals and Nature, and earlier this year, was the runner up in the Africa National Geographic Competition. Ivan’s safaris are based solely at Oltepesi in the Reserve on the Mara and are centered on photography and wildlife. When I attended, we would leave camp at 5.45 a.m. and at times, not return until 8 p.m.
Unlike the Kicheche camps, Oltepesi is part of a Masai community and is not a luxury camp, but it has all the necessities. Unlike the Kicheche camps, Oltepsesi is more of an original and true safari with tremendous photographic and wildlife opportunities. You have your own “house tent” with all the amenities and good food. For photographers and those wanting wildlife 24/7 without interruption, it is a great way to go. Manager Big John and his staff at Oltespesi were excellent, our guide Shaddy was terrific and, although at times my 10 days were exhausting, they were exhilarating. I experienced great adventures, good times, much laughter, met some great people, and with Ivan heading the way, I could not have asked for more.
I saw my first and one of many cheetah hunts, but they didn’t always end in a kill. We also
saw two mother cheetahs, one with four cubs and the other with two; we crossed flooded creeks and riverbeds with water flowing through the jeep; encountered large prides of lions with cubs; got charged by a large bull elephant that had me jumping back in the jeep only for him to stop with his tusks merely feet away; a stunning male leopard who treated us to quite a show; a female leopard with her cub high in the treetops; and a large clan of hyenas feasting on the carcass of a hippo at the river’s edge.
At that particular sighting, I saw something I had never seen. All were eating when suddenly, one hyena attacked another and seconds later, several others joined in the attack. At that point, we thought it would end in tragedy, but instead, the attacked hyena lost just a small part of his ear, and they all resumed eating as if nothing had happened.
I happen to love hyenas and they are one of the most misunderstood animals. The mothers are great caretakers of their young; they’re very social in clans that can exceed 130 in number, their bite can kill and crush bones; they run down their prey to exhaustion, cruising at speeds of 60 mph to kill cape buffalo and giraffes. They are also one of the longest living carnivores with many surviving over 20 years. And they are extremely intelligent. Rather than hating them, they should be loved, but not all, including Ivan, would agree with me.
A safari isn’t just a trip to Africa, it changes you. When you experience the utter beauty of nature and wildlife in their natural habitat, you suddenly realize that life is fleeting. For every animal, it is a daily struggle to survive, and death comes in many ways, mostly without warning. As a photographer tourist, you may or may not see a kill, but to see a cheetah at full speed suddenly come out of dense trees after its prey is something you will never forget. Wildlife photography is a game of patience as you can and do spend hours waiting and watching. And just when you think nothing is happening, it explodes!
Kenya is a land of magnificent scenery including Mount Kilimanjaro as well as the Maasai Mara National Reserve and Tanzania’s great Serengeti National Park. The best times to see the Great Migration of the animals are from July through October and is one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
Like much of Africa, Kenya offers incredible experiences such as hot air balloon ride safaris, nature walks, sundowners on the plains or sleeping under the stars, while all around you, the large populations of wildlife live and die.
I am often asked what my favorite place is to visit, and I have to say Africa. I have been to incredible places around the world, but Africa will always call me back. As Hemmingway stated, there is never a morning you don’t wake up happy and I hope you enjoy my photos.
Please feel free to contact me for any information and please visit my website leighlofgren.com for more of my images or to order any photographic prints.
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This story appeared in Lakelife magazine, Volume 18, Issue 5 and is the property of Smith Communications, Inc. No portions of the story or photos may be copied or used without written consent from the publisher.
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